Grips are the only part of the club you actually touch, and they’re easy to forget about. But a worn grip makes you squeeze harder, and a tight grip makes it harder to swing freely and square the club face.
New grips are one of the cheapest upgrades in golf. They’re also one of the most common jobs on a set of used clubs. Here’s how to tell when it’s time, and what to buy.
How often to replace grips
A common rule of thumb is to regrip about once a year, or roughly every 40 rounds, whichever comes first. If you practice a lot, play in heat, or store clubs in a hot car trunk, grips wear faster.
That’s only a guide. The condition of the grip matters more than the calendar.
Signs your grips are worn
- Slick or shiny. A grip that feels slippery even when dry has lost its tack (its slightly sticky surface).
- Hard. Rubber hardens with age, heat and sunlight. A good grip should feel slightly soft when you squeeze it.
- Smooth spots. Look where your thumbs and fingers sit. Worn patches mean the texture is gone.
- Cracks or splits, especially near the end cap or under your bottom hand.
- Faded color or a chalky feel, a sign the rubber is breaking down.
- You’re squeezing harder to stop the club twisting in your hands.
If two or three of these sound familiar, it’s time.
Used clubs and grips
When buying used clubs, always look at the grips. Old, hard grips are common and don’t mean the clubs are bad. They do mean you should factor in the cost of new grips. Clubs with fresh grips are often worth a little more for that reason.
If the listing photos don’t show the grips clearly, ask the seller. Our condition grades guide explains how grips fit into a used club’s grade.
Grip sizes
Grips come in a few standard sizes. The right size lets you hold the club with your fingers just touching your palm, without gaps and without your fingers digging in.
| Size | Who it suits |
|---|---|
| Undersize | Smaller hands, many women and juniors |
| Standard | Most golfers |
| Midsize | Larger hands, or anyone who wants a softer, fuller feel |
| Jumbo (oversize) | Very large hands, arthritis or limited hand strength |
As a rough guide, glove size is a helpful starting point: golfers who wear a men’s large or extra large glove often like midsize, while smaller glove sizes usually suit standard or undersize. Your preference counts too.
Some golfers add extra layers of tape under a standard grip to build it up slightly, which sits between standard and midsize.
A grip that’s too small can encourage overactive hands. A grip that’s too big can make it harder to release the club. Neither effect is huge, but it’s worth getting close.
Grip materials
| Type | Feel | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| Rubber | Soft, comfortable, affordable | Most golfers |
| Cord | Firm, rough texture with fibers woven in | Wet weather, sweaty hands, firm grip pressure |
| Hybrid (cord and rubber) | Cord on top, rubber below | A mix of grip and comfort |
| Wrap style | Feels like an old leather wrap, soft | Comfort and cushioning |
| Soft or oversize “comfort” grips | Extra cushioning | Arthritis, joint pain, older golfers |
If you’re not sure, a standard rubber grip is a safe, inexpensive choice.
Putter grips
Putter grips are different. They can have flat fronts (the rules allow a flat side on putter grips only) and come in many thicknesses. A larger putter grip reduces wrist movement, which many golfers find steadier. A slimmer one gives more feel. Putter grips wear slowly, but replace yours if it’s slick or cracked. See our mallet vs blade putter guide for more on choosing a putter.
What regripping costs
Costs vary by grip brand and where you live, but as a rough guide:
- Grips: about $5 to $15 each for standard rubber grips, more for premium cord or oversize grips. Putter grips often run about $15 to $35.
- Shop labor: many golf shops charge a few dollars per club, and some include labor free when you buy the grips there.
- A full set of 13 club grips (not counting the putter) often comes to roughly $80 to $200 at a shop, depending on the grips you choose.
Doing it yourself vs a shop
A shop is the easy choice. They’ll have sizes to try, do the job quickly, and make sure the grips go on straight. If you only regrip once a year, it’s usually worth it.
Doing it yourself saves on labor, and it’s a manageable job once you’ve done a few. You’ll need:
- Grip tape (double-sided).
- Grip solvent, which makes the tape slippery so the grip slides on, then dries.
- A hook blade or utility knife to cut off the old grip, carefully, cutting away from yourself and the shaft.
- A vise with a rubber shaft clamp to hold the club. Never clamp a graphite shaft directly in a vise.
The basic steps: cut off the old grip, remove the old tape, wrap new tape, coat it with solvent, slide the new grip on, line up the logo, and let it dry for a few hours before playing. Take extra care with graphite shafts, as a knife can easily scratch or weaken them.
Grips and your swing
Fresh grips won’t fix a swing fault, but they can help in small ways. Less grip pressure helps you swing more freely, and that can make it easier to square the face. If you’re working on a slice, see how to fix a slice with equipment.
Build a bag, then check the grips
Used Golf Club Finder picks a full bag of used clubs that suit your swing, then suggests the extras you’ll probably need after that, like a bag, a glove and fresh grips.
The short version
- Replace grips about once a year or every 40 rounds, or sooner if they’re slick, hard or cracked.
- Always check the grips on used clubs and budget for new ones if needed.
- Standard size suits most golfers. Larger hands or sore joints often prefer midsize or bigger.
- Rubber is the safe default. Cord helps in wet weather or with sweaty hands.
- A shop is quick and cheap. DIY saves money once you have the tools.
