A slice is a shot that curves hard to the right for a right-handed golfer (to the left for a lefty). It’s the most common miss in golf, and it costs distance and golf balls.
The real cause of a slice is in the swing. But the right equipment can take a lot of the curve out while you work on it, and the wrong equipment can make it much worse. This guide covers both.
Why the ball slices
A slice happens when the club face is open (pointing right of where the club is traveling) at impact. That puts sidespin on the ball, and the ball curves.
Usually it comes from two things together:
- An open face at impact.
- An out-to-in swing path, where the club travels across the ball from outside the target line toward your body.
Equipment can help the face close a little more, reduce sidespin, and make the curve smaller. It can’t change your swing path. Keep that in mind as you read.
1. Use more loft on your driver
This is the single easiest change. Loft is the angle of the club face. More loft means more backspin compared to sidespin, so the ball curves less.
- If you slice, choose a 10.5° to 12° driver instead of 9° or 10°.
- On an adjustable driver, turn the hosel (the adjustable piece where the shaft meets the head) to a higher loft setting. On most drivers, adding loft also closes the face slightly, which helps a slice twice.
It’s also why many slicers hit their 5-wood straighter than their driver. The 5-wood has more loft and a shorter shaft.
2. Choose a draw-biased driver
A draw is a shot that curves gently left for a right-hander, the opposite of a slice. A draw-biased driver is built to help the face close by impact. Brands do this in a few ways:
- Weight in the heel of the head, which helps the face rotate closed.
- A slightly closed face angle at address.
- Movable weights you can slide or swap toward the heel.
Look for a “D” in the model name, or the word “Draw”. The Callaway Rogue ST Max D is a draw model that’s now a good value used. Some “Max” heads also have a slight draw bias built in, like the TaylorMade Qi35 Max. The Cobra Darkspeed Max has adjustable weights you can move toward the heel.
A draw driver won’t turn a big slice into a draw. It typically makes a big slice smaller, and a small slice closer to straight.
3. Check your shaft flex
A shaft that’s too stiff for your swing is a classic slice helper. It doesn’t bend enough to help square the face, so shots tend to fly low and to the right.
If your average drive goes under about 230 yards and you’re playing stiff shafts, try regular. Under about 200 yards, try senior. Our shaft flex guide has the full chart.
A lighter shaft can help too. It’s easier to swing, and many golfers find it easier to release the club, which helps the face close.
4. Offset irons and forgiving heads
Offset means the club face sits slightly behind the shaft. That gives you a fraction more time to square the face before impact and tends to launch the ball a bit higher. Most game improvement and super game improvement irons have noticeable offset. Blades and players irons have very little.
Look for:
- Offset and a wide sole.
- A large cavity back for forgiveness on mishits.
Sets like the Callaway Rogue ST Max OS (“OS” means oversize) are built for exactly this. Our guide to game improvement vs players clubs explains the categories.
Irons usually slice less than the driver anyway, because they have more loft and shorter shafts. If your irons slice badly too, the swing is the bigger factor.
5. Grips that are too big or too worn
Grip size has a small effect on face rotation:
- Grips that are too thick can make it harder for your hands to release, which can leave the face open.
- Worn, slippery grips make you squeeze harder, and tension in the hands makes a slice more likely.
Standard-size grips in good condition suit most people. See when to replace golf grips.
Quick guide: what helps and how much
| Change | What it does | How much it helps |
|---|---|---|
| More driver loft | More backspin, less sidespin | Noticeable for most slicers |
| Draw-biased driver | Helps the face close | Noticeable, especially paired with more loft |
| Softer, lighter shaft | Easier to square the face | Big if your current shaft is too stiff |
| Offset irons | More time to square the face | Modest |
| Fresh, right-size grips | Less grip tension | Small but worthwhile |
| Hitting a 5-wood off the tee | More loft, shorter shaft | Noticeable on tight holes |
What equipment can’t fix
Be realistic. Equipment reduces the curve. It doesn’t remove the cause.
- An out-to-in swing path stays the same with any driver. Worse, if you aim further left to allow for your slice, the path often gets even more out-to-in.
- A weak grip (hands turned too far toward the target on the club) makes it hard to close the face. Checking your grip is free and often makes a big difference.
- Ball position too far forward can open the shoulders and encourage an out-to-in path.
A lesson or two with a teaching professional is often the best money a slicer can spend. Combine that with forgiving, slice-friendly clubs and you get the best of both.
Avoid these if you slice
- Low-spin drivers (often labeled LS, LST or Triple Diamond). They’re built for fast swings and can make a slice curve more and fall shorter.
- Low-loft drivers of 9° or less.
- Stiff or extra stiff shafts unless your swing is genuinely fast.
- Blades and players irons with little offset.
Build a slice-friendly bag
Used Golf Club Finder lets you tell it your usual miss. If you slice, it leans toward draw-biased, forgiving clubs and matches the right flex across the set.
The short version
- A slice comes from an open face and an out-to-in swing. Equipment can reduce the curve but not fix the swing.
- More driver loft (10.5° to 12°) is the easiest, cheapest fix.
- Draw-biased drivers and offset irons help the face close.
- A shaft that’s too stiff makes a slice worse. When in doubt, go softer.
- Pair forgiving clubs with a lesson for the biggest improvement.
